One of the challenges in France is finding good coffee. All of those lovely picturesque cafes with wonderful terraces tend to serve awful coffee, what a pity! (And it’s not just me that thinks this, here’s an article from the New York Times in 2010. Why is Coffee So Bad in Paris?) Anyway, without going into a whole treatise on why, the simple summary of the problem is as follows:
1. Cheap robusta beans. These are higher in caffeine, and tend to be bitter. Arabica vs. Robusta Beans
2. Poorly maintained equipment, improper grind settings.
3. No training of staff, lack of coffee knowledge or interest.
4. Over extraction, failure to distinguish between an Alonge (lungo in Italian) and an Americano. Lungo vs Americano. Americano Wiki Alonge or Lungo
“A caffè lungo should not be mistaken for a caffè americano (an espresso with hot water added to it) or a long black (hot water with a short black added to it, which is the inverse order to an Americano and done to preserve the crema).” -Wikipedia
5. Non coffee hours! Be sure to check the hours before you set out for any of the suggested locations. You’ll be shocked to find out that many don’t open till quite late in the morning or are closed on Sundays and Mondays! Quel Horreur!
Here is a primer on how to order coffee in France: How to order coffee And another one Ordering coffee everyday
So, here are some places that seem to have the general concept of how to make coffee properly, not always with good result, but at least a starting point:
Back in Black. New addition to my list, this place is near the Bastille, has a full restaurant, hosts a roaster and at this point, 02/23, makes the best coffee that I have had in Paris.
Cafe Coutume 7th Arr. Update 09/19: They now have table service and have joined the “Slow Coffee” movement, it took an angonizingly long time to get coffee this morning and after a suitably long wait, I went up to the counter and ordered myself. Too bad, they were one of the originals, but would not reccomend now. This is good to combine with a visit to the Grande Epicerie
Terres de Cafe They have various stores in the 3rd, 4th, 8th and 17th.
Ten Belles A nice little shop in the 10th, near the Canal St. Martin.
Cafeotheque 52 Rue de L’Hotel de Ville in the 4th
Telescope Cafe In the 2nd, Metro Pyramid, check hours closed on some days.
The Broken Arm Just off the Carreau du Temple in the 3rd
Cafe Loustic In the 3rd
Malongo This is by far the best coffee I’ve found in Paris so far, choice of espresso blends, in the 6th near Odeon. They are also open everyday!!!
Hardware Societe A great Australian style coffee shop in Montmartre.
Le Peloton Cafe Friendly cafe in the 4th.
KB Cafe Shop Top of Rue des Martyrs, combines well with Montmartre. Good Aussie style shop.
Brulerie Belleville Locations in the 1st, 10th, and 19th.
Here are few options that I have not been to, but seem worth trying:
Dose Coffee On Rue Mouffetard in the 5th.
Boot Cafe In the 3rd.
Early Bird Coffee. Just found this in the covered section of the market in the 12, Marche d’Aligre. Excellent coffee.
American style coffee with refills:
Bob’s Bakeshop This place is in the 18th and had American style coffee last I was there. They also have a location next to Shakespeare & Co. Not sure of that one.
Sugar Plum Cake Shop This place is listed as having free refills, check for yourself.
Here is a nice article with cafe suggestions: The Earful Tower Podcast
Here’s a list that looks pretty good: The Culture Trip
Here’s an article about it: Taste
NOTE: I suggest you use YELP (works well in Paris!) and TripAdvisor and read reviews before going to these shops. Google Maps with transit button will help you find the best routing to get there. Google Maps also links to reviews and comments, be sure to check hours, particulary in the morning, on Sundays and on Mondays. I’m sure there are plenty of other options, this is just intended as a starting point.