Managed to get a reservation for the Musee des Arts Forains today. This is a museum of vintage carousels and other circus type games and paraphernalia. The only way to see it is by doing the tour. It is part of the Bercy village. This area was where all the wine was stored and distributed well into the 1970s. The museum had some very cool stuff and most of it seemed functional. We rode various carousels and used the only bicycle powered carousel. Dinner at L’Avant Comptoir du Terre a favorite place to have a few bites without having to do a whole sit down meal.

A nice easy day today. Headed to Peleton for morning coffee then to storage unit to pick up my bag. Lunch in Oberkampf at MELT which does Texas style BBQ with a French twist. Then got on the afternoon boat tour from Arsenal, near the Bastille to Bassin de La Villete. A little bit long but very interesting. A long underground passage and then quite a few locks to get up to the basin. Something I have wanted to do for awhile but haven’t made it happen. Dinner with friends at Cyrano in Porte de Clichy. Surprisingly good meal in a very small cafe. Lovely weather today!

Long day of trains and buses, but all went smoothly. Out the door in San Sebastián at 8:30 this morning then bus to a Euskotren station. Euskotren to Hendaye, which is just across the border in France. Then an hour wait for train to Paris. 5hrs on the train to Paris, then a bus to the apartment. I must admit it felt great to walk in the door of the familiar La Lanterne apartment and feel at home! I have stayed in 12 different hotels in the last 19 days! It will be nice to wake up for the next 10 days and not have to pack every day! Nice warmish weather in Paris, I stocked in some groceries and bought a nice chunk of aged Comte!

Got up early and headed to Simona Coffee Club for the usual avocado toast breakfast that they do so well. Then off walking around the city. Tonight is the major semi finals soccer with San Sebastián playing Madrid. Although the game doesn’t start till 9:00pm, the general partying seems to have started around noon. Amazing number of people in town all wearing blue and white striped jerseys and scarfs. Walked down the promenade a bit, had some lunch, back for a nap, then out again for some pinxtos, a normal San Sebastián type day.

Today was a long day on the bus. Something like 4.5 hours from Oviedo to Bilbao then an hour break then another 1.5 hrs to San Sebastián. Spanish buses are quite good, exceedingly punctual and often the best way for certain routes that are not served well by train. For those planning a trip to Spain be sure to download the ALSA app. This is the main bus company in Spain. For longer trips, look for the “Supra” designation as these buses are much more luxurious with only 3 seats across and generally more direct. I had a Supra for the first part of my trip and it made it substantially more comfortable. Checked in to my Pension in San Sebastián, and then headed out for some Pinxtos as I hadn’t eaten all day. For whatever reason the place is crazy crowded, but fortunately you can still get into some places without too much effort. Not sure why it is this crazy, but possibly related to soccer game tomorrow.

View from balcony of my Pension.

It was about a 3.5 hour bus ride from Ribadeo to Oviedo, with lots of stops. Fortunately the bus only stopped when necessary so maybe less than half of the 55 stops! Many were in towns that I had walked through so that was fun. Arrived in Oviedo around 2:45pm and checked into lovely modern 4star hotel, 74 euros/night! Then was directed to a good restaurant for lunch. A rather raucous bunch of about 30 people came in right after me. Probably a company group lunch. 3:30pm is not an unusual lunch time in Spain. Explored the town a little then out for an Apero by the Cathedral before calling it a night. Lovely Canadian ladies joined me at the table, and they were starting on the Primitivo tomorrow. One was an acupunturist who lives in Mexico now. Anyway, did some math and it turned out that from Wednesday to Wednesday I walked a total of 207,354 steps!

Today was clear skies and sunny when I got up. I think I was the only one staying in the hotel. When I went for dinner last night I found a place that was a bar/delicatessen and the owner happily made me a selection of charcuterie and cheese. A couple that was in there with their kid suggested an anchovy bar down the streeet, so it was off to that, and they were there also. Very friendly and the man, who spoke French, recommended a combined Pulperia and Parilla in Ribadeo. The walk was pleasant but not exciting, basically paved backroads with very little traffic. Took about 3 hrs. Non stop to cover the distance and there was a very long sketchy bridge coming in to Ribadeo. I’m staying at the parador, which is a fancy old style hotel. Took a little while for the room to be ready, but lunch kitchens here don’t really open till 1:30pm so didn’t matter. Had another lunch recommendation but it was quite a bit further, more expensive and looked like a tourist joint, so decided to try the one recommend to me, Asador Pulperia A Menchina, which is run by Argentines, and I got a warm welcome. Did in a plate of possibly the most tender delicious octopus I have ever tried, followed by an Entrana, or Skirt Steak from Argentine beef with real Chimchurri! Needless to say a great way to end the walk, with Tiramisu to follow! Probably won’t have dinner! Anyway, a number or days of travel start tomorrow with a 3.5 hr bus ride to Oviedo. This section of the Norte has been relatively bland, although the hotels and the food have been good. The scenery not terribly interesting and I would have to characterize Asturias as generally smelling like barnyard with a touch of cider at times. Crossing the long bridge meant leaving Asturias and entering Galicia. This will be the 4th province that I have been in on the walk, starting with the Pays Vasco, or Basque Country, then Cantabria then Asturias and now Galicia.

A nice evening hanging out with fellow pilgrims around the corner from the hotel. The cafe had GF bread so a ham and cheese did duty as dinner. Woke up to a little bit of rain, nothing too serious, but also realized that the 24km I was booked for was going to be way too much for me today. Normally on good terrain I walk at about 4km/hr. So, 24km would be at least 6 hours of walking and probably more. Good news in that the bus station was right behind the hotel and had a 9:15 bus going the right direction. By taking this bus part way, I was able to get the distance down to a more reasonable number. Fortunately, although it continued to spit a little, it never really rained hard and with relatively easy walking and no big hills, made it to the next hotel in about 3 hours. After checking in, was able to find an excellent lunch of a Salade Mixte and some clams. Back to the hotel for some down time, my room does feel a bit like a refrigerator, but apparently the heat is now off for the season. Oh well…. Extra blankets in the closet. Tomorrow is the last walking day, to Ribadeo, then there is quite a few days of travel to get back to Paris. First a bus ride to Oviedo, then another bus ride to San Sebastián, then a day off then train to Hendaye and change to fast train to Paris. 24,000 steps.

I didn’t end up eating dinner last night as my 3:30pm lunch was big enough to tide me over, some Paella, then roast chicken and fries and a dessert and some wine all for a Prix fixe price of 20 euros. A steep climb this morning out of Luarca, then largely country roads for miles with lovely rolling terrain and some hills. Around 1:15pm came out near a little cafe and ordered some lunch. After a rather tough but tasty burger walked out and turned out a bus was due at the bus stop, it was late, but saved another 2 hrs of walking and considering I had 4hrs already in, I was happy. The Palacio de Arias hotel is quite nice, and managed a clean up and a nap. Then out to explore the town. Not a lot going on. Interesting smell prevalent of barnyard with maybe a hint of cider. 23,000 steps

A very brisk morning which made for good walking, and not too many big hills today. The forecast rain held off for the most part, but came down hard in the last 15minutes before arriving at the hotel. Still took a solid 5 hours to get here! Last night had serious camino magic as I ended up sharing dinner with a retired psychologist from Belgium, his partner from Madrid, and then we met a couple of locals, a retired cop from Wales and his wife, a retired prosecutor from Amsterdam. Many languages spoken and much fun. Today’s walk was mostly on backroads with some trail. Luarca is a town wrapped around a harbor full of fishing boats. Huge waves offshore and a good sea wall. Made it in time for lunch at 3:00pm which was the meal of the day. Met Juan who is originally from Barcelona but lives in Australia and has worked at the Sydney Botanical Gardens for 20 years. I was able to help Juan get an esim going on his phone as the one he had was not working. Took a little doing but in the end, UBIGI for the win! He was very happy as not having a working phone was challenging. Off and on rain, but was able to walk around town a bit. 28,725 steps for the day.