After a fabulous evening last night it was time to get serious today. Up at 7:00am to get as many things in to the roll aboard as I can so that my backpack is as light as possible. Got it to a reasonable 15-16 lbs I would estimate. The guidebook I had said that walking out of Gijon was the worst part of the Camino del Norte and recommended taking a bus, which I had planned to do. Luckily I researched it because the bus only comes once per hour, #24. I got to the stop 10 minutes early and it was right on time. The recommendation was to go to the Pauo Alto stop and that worked well and saved about an hour and half of pavement walking through grim looking industrial areas and along freeways. Right away there was a good climb up through a eucalyptus forest. Weather got warm, and after descent of the hill, it was a long stretch of pavement and a couple of hours of walking along the side of the highway. Eventually there was a bus stop in Trasona with a bus due momentarily, so I was able to cut another hour of pavement and highway off the itinerary. On arrival in Aviles, they were not kidding when the hotel was called a Palacio. Definitely a palace of a place, with a view onto fabulous gardens out back and big plaza out front. survive the first day back on the trail will definitely be sore. This is what they call “type 2”fun.

A solid day in Gijon. Went and found the central market this morning, then off to the Roman baths, nearby church and up the hill to a park and famous sculpture. Then a delicious lunch at Taberan Zingara. Some down time and then a major fun dinner with a Spanish family. My New Hampshire neighbor, MP, married in to this family and they are a lot of fun. I think we had around 16 people for dinner at a cider house type place. Much fun was had by all!

A long bus ride today. First bus to Bilbao, which has one of the nicest bus stations ever. Then an hour and a half until the next bus, so a decent lunch was found. From there a 2:30 bus to Gijon with multiple stops arriving on time in Gijon at 7:20pm. Short walk to hotel, then a shower and off to find some dinner. Lots of places around, but ended up with a mediocre pork loin type dish. Gijon is beautiful with a lovely curving waterfront. Fortunately a day off tomorrow to recover and dinner with MP relatives.

Woke up and found that jet lag had struck as it was 9:45am! Got out the door quickly to my favorite breakfast place just around the corner, Simona Specialty coffee which not only has great coffee but does a GF avocado toast that is delicious. Then walked across town to the Cathedral where the Easter mass was just starting, lovely organ and singing. Then a walk around and lunch at a Vermut place. Turns out Spain has an hour of Vermut, which is traditionally between 12:00 and 2:00 just before lunch. I tried a marianito, which is some Vermouth with Campari. Tasty but definitely a bitter type drink. After some lunch back to the apartment to regroup and then out for the evening Tapas run. Perfect temperature today rising to mid 60s.

A long train ride from Montparnasse to Hendaye, a little over 4hours, then the local Euskotren to San Sebastián. All went smoothly, other than the whiny pooch in the next seat who made irritating barking and whining noises for the whole ride. San Sebastián was sunny and about 70 degrees so a nice contrast to Paris. After checking into my AirBnb, a lovely large one bedroom apartment just across the river from the old town, I headed out to get some tapas on board. Then it was back for a load of laundry and some set up and then out again for another round of Tapas. Lots and lots of people out, I forgot this was a holiday weekend when I booked the trip months ago. See some photos, if you haven’t been to San Sebastián it should be on your list!

After coffee at Le Peloton, it was off to the Grand Palais to see about getting in to the Matisse exhibit, which has been sold out for awhile. Usually, you can join the museum as a member and skip the lines and reservations, and that worked well this time. Straight into the building, bought a years membership, discounted because I have other memberships and straight into the exhibit. As it turns out this membership includes a large number of other museums so it works out well. Nice colorful exhibit. For those of you who visit Paris frequently, joining the museums you like is the best hack for going whenever you want without waiting in line or making reservations. Then a walk through the Tuileries followed by a bus to the 3rd to try a new Crepe place in the Marche des Enfants Rouge. Way too many people in line for that, but had a good burger instead. Back for a nap and some organizing and then put my storage stuff back into the storage space. Dinner at Atlas, lovely oysters and Langoustines. Train tomorrow down to Spain!

A low key day today, grey but not raining. Started with a stop at Le Peleton for coffee, then waiting around for a new owner to come to the apartment. Eventually it turned out their flight was a few hours late, so headed over to the Bastille market for a walk around before returning to the apartment. Gave them a good orientation and then headed over to the Ile St. Louis to find some lunch, ended up back at the Louis Philipe a solid bistro and had an excellent chicken with a morel mushroom cream sauce. Then back to hotel for a solid nap. After that a stop at Deux Magots for some people watching and then dinner at L’Avant Comptoir du Terre.

Had a nice smooth flight from Seattle, with my own row of 4 seats, so was able to stretch out and sleep for most of the flight. Plane was not very full which helps. On arrival at CDG, there was no line at all for passport control, that’s unusual. Then stepped right into an RER train headed into the city. I had charged up my weekly pass before departure, so didn’t need to get a ticket. Went and checked on the apartment as we have a new owner arriving tomorrow, then dinner with friends at Le Colimacon, a traditional and friendly French restaurant in the Marais. Weather went from grey and sprinkling to some hard rain, so not lovely. Didn’t take many pictures but here are a couple! Hard to do selfies while juggling umbrella!

Last full day in Paris. I discovered a fantastic work around for going to the Louvre. I have always avoided the place mainly because of the crowds but also because it is so large. Anyway, if you go downstairs in the Carousel shopping area, pass the line of thousands to the front and tell them you want to buy a membership, they will let you go right in and do so. If you are a member of another museum it is discounted to 85euros/yr. This allows you to skip the line and go in anytime you want with no reservations. Well worth it. Looking forward to reading E. Sciolino’s book “Adventures at the Louvre” and then following up. After this go sorted I went to the Bibliotheque Nationale de France, which has lovely rooms and is more or less open to the public. Then after a lunch of curry and rice back to the apartment for some organizing for upcoming departure. Managed to meet John R. For dinner.

Headed to the Marmottan museum today, this small museum has one of the best Monet collections if the world. A little out of the center, but no lines and easy to manage. Walked around the 16th a bit finding a local place for a Poulet Fermier for lunch. Downtime at the apartment and then off to friend for dinner of Raclette. Apparently, every French person has a raclette machine, you put slices of cheese in individual pans and they melt and you pour them on Charcuterie and potatoes. Good fun and a hearty meal.