The weather stayed true to the forecast and there was a dusting of snow when I got up a little after 6:00am to organize and head up the hill to the cathedral for the 7:00am pilgrim blessing/mass. There were about 40 people in attendance, so things are off to a good start. The official opening for most Gites and other places is April 1st, so if you plan to do this try to start after that date, and given the weather, maybe May would be better. The trail out of Le Puy (630M, 2,066ft) climbs off an on all day until Montbonnet, 16km down the road at (1127M, 3,700ft). This makes for a fairly strenuous day and more so with snow, When there was not much wind it was actually quite pleasant, but many sections were very exposed and the wind was blowing snow around making pretty rough going. I used some wool socks as mittens, and had an Icebreaker T Shirt, Icebreaker sweater, LLbean vest and a puffy jacket, and was comfortable when it wasn’t too windy. Luckily, the 16km to my lodging was done by about 1:00pm and the Gite I’m staying at had lunch available, so stumbled in the door and sat down to lunch, joined by Tetsu, a retired Japanese immunologist. Unfortunately tomorrow’s weather is looking much the same, if not slightly colder. Right now it is snowing quite hard. There’s a small peak to climb over right out the town and then a bit of up and down before descending to the next stop.

Today started with an early metro ride to Gare Montparnasse, only problem was that when I arrived, it turned out I needed to be at Gare de Lyon instead. Well never give up, went outside, saw a cab dropping someone off and got him to take me. It was going to be tight, but the taxis can use the bus lanes, and then it turned out my train was delayed for 10 minutes, so in the end made it easily, with 10 minutes or more to spare. The first leg was TGV, so 300kmph towards Lyon followed by a change of trains. The further south we got the less it looked like spring with most trees not showing leaves or buds. Arriving at Le Puy around 2:30pm I found my hotel, and went for an exploration. Le Puy has a grand cathedral but it is quite a hike as it is on the top of the hill. Weather forecast my make it not possible to walk tomorrow, with a severe weather warning out and snow and 28 degrees forecast….we’ll see what it looks like in the AM. There is a pilgrim blessing/mass at 7:00am so I will try for that and it should give me a good read on conditions. Tomorrow’s walk is supposed to be 16km, not terribly long, but it looks like it’s largely uphill!

Woke up to the smell of croissants, as noted, and to lots of rain. Grey Paris!! Sleep was definitely rough, normally I’m not very affected by jet lag, but last night was one of the rougher ones. Oh well, comes with the territory. Metro to the NoGlu in the 7th for breakfast and then but over to Peleton dodging rain the whole time. In between showers got some walking in and then to Rue Montorgueil for lunch at Le Compas, a favorite with a great terrace. Back for a nap and then a walk to Jardin du Luxembourg with a pass by our old apartment at Pl. St.Sulpice. Hung out at Deux Magot during some pretty heavy rain showers.

I woke up to an intense smell of buttery croissants this morning at about 6:45am. You know you’re in France when it is sufficiently potent to smell intensely on the 5th floor!

My flight from Seattle was smooth, although Delta’s FlyReady program didn’t do much as usual. I did get a boarding pass out of it, but still got called up to the counter to show everything all over again. The plane had lots of empty seats, so I had no trouble boarding with my excessively large 32L pack as well as my full size roll aboard. I did manage to stretch out across 4 seats for a good part of the flight, but noxious children in the row behind kept it from being restful. Arrival in Paris was easy with less than 5 minutes to get through the formalities. I did stop at the pharmacy to update my Vaccine pass with the booster, even though they are no longer required. If that changes or I go to a country that does require them, this pass should work anywhere in the EU. RER took me close to the hotel and I had charged up my Navigo pass from my phone before leaving Seattle. I’m experimenting the a variety of eSims this trip. While the initial installation of the first one was rocky, it is working, I used an Airalo SIM for my iPad mini, and then bought a Bouygues eSim for my 13pro and I’m still using the same Orange physical Sim in my 11pro. So far all are working, but I am finding that having a separate travel phone is more straightforward than using dual sim features.

After dropping bags at the hotel, I went out for a bite and then stopped for Coffee at Peleton, then to Decathlon to buy some poles for my camino. Much less expensive here, I got a nice telescoping set for 32 euros. They didn’t have the rubber tips, but I had brought some spares, and found some at a different store. Also got a Swiss Army knife. Managed to have lunch at Le Sancerre in the 3rd and then grazed a little for dinner at L’Avant Comptoir du Mer. Weather has been off and on raining, but not very cold. Today, Wednesday, it’s definitely wet and gray without much let up. I’m quite concerned about the weather on my camino route. Forecast is for rain on Friday, fine, but then very cold, as in freezing temperatures and snow for the next few days…. Not too promising!

Friday 11/19/2021

UPDATED: 03/04/22

Breaking news: Looks like vaccine pass will not be necessary after March 15th!!! See this article: Covid Vaccine Pass Rules lifted I will leave the rest of the info just for reference.

As a wrap up to a great three week trip, I’d like to offer the benefit of what I found out about traveling to and within France. Obviously, with the Covid pandemic still going on, things can and will change, so be sure to verify any information provided. Here is a great site for monitoring all of the parameters of the pandemic in France on a daily basis, click on the map to get information specific to a particular department. https://covidtracker.fr. Every airline has a Covid requirements site, be sure to check with you airline as to what is required. Remember that often gate personnel are not up on the latest requirements and will invent rules that don’t actually exist. Here is an example of Delta Airlines resource: https://www.delta.com/us/en/travel-planning-center/know-before-you-go/travel-requirements-guide

1. Getting to France: If you are traveling from the USA, I would strongly advise that you get a non-stop to Paris. Avoid changing planes in European airports if at all possible. Many countries have their own entry and transit rules, and particularly avoid London as UK is no longer part of the EU. Here’s a good website for finding out what kinds of tests and requirements you need to meet, including for connections: https://apply.joinsherpa.com/travel-restrictions. At the moment, to go to France from the USA, you need proof that you’ve been vaccinated with an approved vaccine. Testing requirement for vaccinated travelers has just been ended 2/12/22. (This could change!). France entry requirements. Be aware that if you are not fully vaccinated different rules apply and I have not spent much time researching this because it is pretty clear that France does not want you to enter if you are not vaccinated.

You will also need to fill out an attestation, and a European PLF form, https://app.euplf.eu/#/ which will be provided to you by the airline (although mine were never actually collected by anyone). Be sure to check your specific airline site for their procedures. EVERY airline has a Covid requirement page, check this rather than continuing to ask the same questions on Facebook. Note: Arrival or departure from CDG should be avoided on Sundays, as it is usually very understaffed. Here is a custom Concierge service for Paris Airports if you want help navigating arrival or departure, I have not tried this so do your own homework: https://myconciergerieorlycdg.fr/en

2. Once in France, to function effectively, you will need a Pass Sanitaire. I was able to get mine by submitting my documents online, this has since changed, and you now need to go to a select pharmacy in France and pay 36 euros for them to enter your vaccine info into the computer and provide you with the pass. As of February 2022, you will need to not only be vaccinated but have a booster to get the pass. Check the rules at the official website below. The pass consisted of a QR code, and you can load it into the Tous Anti Covid app, but I found that a screen shot, saved to my favorites or as wallpaper was easier to access. (No, an American generated QR code will not work.). Here‘s the link to info on which pharmacies can convert your vaccine card to a French Pass Sanitaire: https://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/en/coming-to-france/coronavirus-advice-for-foreign-nationals-in-france/coronavirus-statements/article/applying-for-a-covid-certificate-if-you-were-vaccinated-abroad-procedure-for. Here’s one more: https://www.sante.fr/how-to-obtain-a-french-health-pass. Here’s a link for Pharmacies at CDG that should be able to do it for you on arrival: CDG Pharmacies. You will find that your pass will be checked multiple times per day and particularly anytime you go into a museum, bar, restaurant or Cafe. You will be expected to wear a mask on the Metro, on buses, Trains, planes, and in museums. Restaurants and Cafes, not so much. If being around unmasked people is worrisome to you, this is not the time for you to go to France. If you got a pass earlier, you will need to get a new one to reflect that you’ve received a booster, go to a pharmacy and they will help you.

3. To return to the USA, you will need to get a covid test. In this case an Antigen, or rapid test, is acceptable. EDIT 12/4/21: You will now need a covid test 1 day before departure, Antigen test acceptable. The verbiage is specifically “1 day” NOT “24hrs,” to give a little more flexibility, see the FAQs on this link: CDC Us Entry Requirements (updated ). Many pharmacies provide this service, but I suggest you book an appointment ahead of time at a pharmacy convenient to where you are staying. This is easily done on the website below, just search for “Depistage Covid” and choose a location near you, for instance in Paris all zip codes end with the arrondisment, eg. The 6th is 75006, the 3rd would be 75003. Here’s the website, it’s easy to change or cancel your appointment https://www.doctolib.fr. It took about 10 minutes for my test and then another 15 or so for the appropriate paperwork to be generated. If you need a test on Sunday, every area has at least one Pharmacy open, called a “Pharmacie de Garde.” Here’s how to locate one, but make an appointment on Doctolib if you can. Pharmacie de Garde Locator Cost, 20 euros. You could also bring an approved test with you, remember it has to be observed, here are some options: Binax now Ag card test. Ellume travel test info and here’s another: City Health and one more: Qured. Here’s a good article about testing positive on departure, with other useful info: What to do if you test positive abroad.

4. Cell phone service: I’m constantly explaining to people that you’ll need cell phone service while you are in France. The absolute best solution is to take your most recent cell phone that you kept when you upgraded and turn that into a travel phone. This phone, since you just upgraded, has all of your passwords, email, facebook etc. by putting a French SIM card in it you, get a French phone number and you can use it as a hotspot to power your other phone and other devices. Make sure the SIM you get allows Tethering. This is why I always recommend the Orange Holiday SIM, now sometime called Orange Holiday Europe. (Available at CDG in Relay stores, or buy on Amazon ahead of time or you can go to an Orange store, but be prepared to wait). If, like me you go to France often, be sure to register it and you can keep it, with each fresh refill giving you 6 month of line validity, no need to be in France to top up. Use the https://top-up.orange.com website and check for specials, also read the FAQs. (My last top up 33 euros for 70GB/30 days). Some American carriers have free roaming, but it is generally slow, a local SIM is always better. Here is a page I put up with specific tips and tricks for using the Orange Holiday SIM Orange Holiday SIM tips and tricks. Unfortunately, most carriers are now charging $10/day which becomes prohibitively expensive on a long trip. If you need data only, for example, for your iPad, there are many cheap sims available. I bought a LycaMobile Sim at a random store (20 euros) and it worked great in my iPad mini, but did not allow for tethering as the Orange Holiday does. Here’s an eSim possibility that I have not tried yet: Bouygues eSim And, here’s another eSim possibility: https://www.airalo.com. I’m trying the Airalo in my iPad mini for the first time and the scanning is a total disaster. If you get one, go straight to the manual installation, a partial scan disables it and it won’t work. I really can’t emphasize enough how important having cell phone coverage is now to traveling in Europe. Train tickets, are bought on an app in your phone, you can recharge your Navigo card with the Bonjour RATP app, museum reservations, dinner reservations etc. all require a working cell phone and having a French number is best. You’ll want to get familiar with google maps and, if you are not familiar with how the Transit function works, you’ll want to get up to speed on that. https://support.google.com/maps/answer/144339. I’d also recommend that you carry a spare battery, as using GPS can run your battery down faster than expected. I keep a power pack from Anker in the pocket of my jacket. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Upgraded-Candy-Bar-High-Speed-Technology

5. Travel Insurance: Yes, you need it!!! I generally worry more about major medical than about trip cancellation issues. So, here’s the quick run down: For evacuation, consider https://medjetassist.com and here’s one that offers Covid evacuation benefits. Covac Global. The reason they are a good choice is that they will evacuate you to where you want to go. Most evacuation policies will only pay to “the nearest adequate medical facility.” For actual trip medical coverage, there are a few approaches. If you travel a lot, the economics of an annual policy work out well. Have a look at: https://www.sevencorners.com. Otherwise, an easy choice is https://www.worldnomads.com. I also like to look at https://www.squaremouth.com which is a site to comparison shop policies. Note that many policies include Covid coverage, make sure yours does! (I just bought, 12/21, a 30 day policy with $500k medical for $158 using Squaremouth) Pay attention to what is excluded, eg. If you like to go para-gliding, make sure you’re covered! While your credit card will offer some coverages, I would not rely on them. Once again, be more concerned about covering catastrophic events and less about baggage and missed flights, You wouldn’t be taking the trip if you couldn’t afford it. Here’s my page on travel insurance for Pilgrims, but should be helpful: https://caminotips.wordpress.com/welcome-to-camino-tips/travel-insurance/

6. Money: I’ve written elsewhere about how to handle money when you travel, so link below. I found that Apple Pay is widely accepted and if you have an Apple Watch, set up a credit card on there and you will be able to use it about 90% of the time. Just to summarize, you should have at least 2 credit cards and 2 debit cards and keep them separate so if you are relieved of your wallet, you have a fall back. Be sure to have some euros before you arrive so that you are not using the airport ATM. Here’s my money page: Handling money when you travel

Hopefully, this is useful information for those planning a trip, do remember that much of it could change as the rules and policies change, so do your own due diligence! If you’d like to see some of the place I stayed, links are here. I generally prefer low/mid range hotels and AirBnbs. Hotels/AirBnb choices

7. Don’t leave home without it: I’d like to suggest a few items that I find useful that may not be part of your normal travel gear. This is not meant to be an inclusive list, rather a few things that you might not have thought of. I always have most of these things in my bag, regardless of destination:

Packable Day Pack: This is good for running around and for all kind of uses. My favorite is this 20L from Eddie Bauer Eddie Bauer Packable daypack. For minimal use, I also carry this super small 20L Packable daypack from Sea to Summit. It does not have pockets, but it does pack very small.

Charcoal capsules, these are really the best upset stomach, food poisoning etc. remedy, don’t take at the same time as medication, but will really calm things down fast.

Electrical tape: many places have lots of bright and annoying LED indicator lights that make it difficult to get the room dark enough to sleep. A dab of black electrical tape can solve this problem. Wrap it around a pill bottle.

Small flashlight, I keep one on my nightstand whenever I’m staying somewhere and use it when I get up during the night. It’s easy to forget where things are in a strange place and disaster can ensue.

Rubber slippers/flip flops, these are good for wearing around hotel rooms AirBnbs etc and in the shower.

Small soaps, most AirBnbs in France will not have soap, bring some. Laundry detergent: I like the little pods with powder in them, and bring a few with me in a ziplock. I prefer unscented, and most European laundry detergent is way over perfumed. Also most AirBnbs won’t have any detergent handy, and I got tired of buying it at every stop.

Ziplock bags: these are hard find in France, roll up a few different sizes and stuff them in your bag, they will come in handy.

Chargers: I’m using an Anker charger that has two USB outlets on it combined with a cable that has multiple end adaptors. Since I travel with 2 phones, a Kindle, an iPad mini with keyboard and battery packs, and an Apple Watch, I need to be able to charge a lot of things at once, two of these allow me to charge 4 things at a time. Anker charger

Kindle: If you don’t have a Kindle this is the best thing for traveling, sign up with your local library and you can take out all of the ebooks you want for free, and from anywhere. This is handy when English language books are not available locally.

Battery bank: You don’t need anything huge, but when you are using phones to navigate etc. they tend to use more battery than in regular daily life, I like ANKER batteries, but bring whatever you like. I keep it in the pocket of my jacket, and can hook it to my phone while it is my belt holster.

VPN: if you’re going to be doing any sensitive banking or maybe you just want to watch Netflix, a VPN is very helpful, I like Express VPN.

Sea to Summit Silk travel sack: in Europe many places provide a bottom sheet and a duvet, I like to have a top sheet, so when traveling solo I take this silk sleep sack. Comfortable and light weight. Silk Travel Sack

First aid: Bring the things that you need, but I recommend some antibiotic ointment since this is not available without prescription in France, also bring whatever NSAID, Allergy meds you prefer, and some Hydrocortisone cream.

Energy Bars: Since I’m Gluten Free, finding things to eat, especially for breakfast, in France, can be very challenging. Also at certain times of day it can be very difficult to find anything to eat. I strongly recommend that you find an energy bar that works for you. It should taste reasonably good and have a low glycemic index. There are lots of products out there, my personal choice is a Zing bar, comes in various flavors. I always travel with a large stash of these and keep one in my jacket pocket at all times.

Below find an assortment of photos from this trip, click on them to expand.

Friday, 11/12/21

I’m writing this from CDG. Yesterday, had a fairly unscheduled day, but planned for lunch with Lily Heise of Je T’aime, me neither blogging fame. She chose the Pigalle Boullion, which turned out to be fun. Bouillon are large, well decorated, fast and cheap restaurants with French classics. I spent the morning doing some walking, and fortunately checking on my route to the RER for the next morning. Low and behold key access gates are closed, so it was good that I had done the recon. Was able to help an American Girl who was clearly baffled by all of this. After a coffee at Peleton and a stroll towards Pl de Vosges and the Carnavalet museum it was up to Montmartre. Note Carnavalet is free, but you do need a reservation. Climbed up the hill, did a quick pass through Pl. Tertre, and then down the hill to meet Lily for lunch. Then a great stroll all the way back to St. Germaine through the covered passages etc.

AIRPORT:

Amazingly, I got myself on the RER, 6:00am, through the Cluny tunnel, free ride since I’m already using a Navigo 5 zone weekly pass. Arrived at airport around 7:00am, about 45min from St Michel. Managed no line at check in, you need Passport, VAX Card, and test result, as well as filling out some kind of form for the USA saying you don’t have Covid. And amazingly, not hassled about carry on. After that, immigration stamps your passport, amazingly today there was no line, this can normally take an hour or more! Then train to terminal, then security, also no line this morning! Air France lounge took pity on me and let me in with no fight, even though I’m likely not entitled to be here, but am willing to pay for admittance. Far as I could tell no restaurants, except one with enormous line are open in the terminal.

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Wednesday 11/10/21

Got up early today because I had a Covid antigen test appointment. Currently, anyone entering the USA needs to have a Covid test within that previous 3 days. I set mine at 2 days before departure, so if the flight gets delayed I have some margin. After a coffee at Cafe Flore, I headed up Rue de Rennes towards a pharmacy for the test. (Note if you need this, schedule on Doctolib.fr ahead of time). After the nasal swab and certain amount of waiting I was handed an official looking printout of things with various QR codes etc. Should do the job. Delta has a place to upload these and a copy of your VAX card, so hopefully I’ll be able to get an online boarding pass tomorrow and skip spending at least an hour in line at the counter at CDG. After uploading things to Delta I headed to Peloton for a coffee and then over to the Rodin Museum for a quick tour of the gardens. I bought an annual membership since that will get me in at will and was not very expensive. Took a quick walk to Coutume to meet Oliver Gee for lunch, they didn’t seem to have much GF, so ate at nearby cafe. After lunch it was off to the Bourse-Pinault museum, a newly opened museum in the restored Bourse building. After waiting in line (I’m coming to the conclusion that a timed ticket just gives you a time to start waiting) and then going through security (really one metal detector for the whole place???). Finally got into the museum. It’s circular, and the main “Art” on display was wax figures slowly melting with candles. Took longer to get in to the place than to circle around and get out. Imagine if the people who ran CDG ran a museum and you’ll get the idea. Other than a great ceiling, this experience can be skipped with no loss whatsoever. Did meet up with NH neighbors Tom and Leslie at their swank hotel for a cocktail on the roof top, very lovely. The hotel is in the newly restored Samaritaine building and is called Cheval Blanc. Great Eiffel Tower views. A few bites at L’Avant Comptoir du Mer and it was time to call it a day.

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Tuesday 11/09/21

Today turned out to be a very full day. I started out by finding the closer location of No Glu, the GF bakery that has tasty things to eat. Then off to Peleton for a coffee and then to the Louis Vuitton Fondation. Too much of line for the little shuttle, so back on the metro and walked from the nearest stop. Bit of a shock to find that my “timed” ticket put me in a huge line, but the got us in reasonably fast. The Russian collection fo impressionist paintings was good, but a little difficult to enjoy when there is a scrum involved, From there, went to check out the market St. in the 17th, rue de Poncolet. Not too much going on there, but had a nice lunch in one of the local cafes, Dada. Then, after visiting Park Monceau, went to see the Bourse area, so that I’d know where things were for tomorrow, and then headed to Adrian Leeds’ Apres Midi event in the 3rd. Charming young lawyer telling her story about moving to Paris, but left after a little over an hour. Took awhile to get home as the 96 bus has been re routed around construction, but at least I know what it does now. Lovely dinner with Christian and sitting next to us a Canadian couple of Greek background from Toronto. All in all an enjoyable busy day.

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Thursday 11/08/21

It was time to clean up and head for Paris for the final part of the trip. TGV was right on time, and not crowded. Amazing from Tours to Paris in 1.5 hours! Fast, quiet and smooth. Trying out one of Annie Sargent’s (Join Us in France) recommended hotel, the Hotel des Grand Balcons, Just up from Odeon. Small but serviceable room at a reasonable price, for Paris. Went by to check out the Samaritaine remodel, spectacular, but now full of store with nothing you need, Fendi, Gucci, LV etc. etc. Then walked over to the newly remodeled Hotel de La Marine, but opted not to do the tour. Lovely dinner with friend Emi from the Camino and, Leslie and Tom from NH had booked at the same place, Les Enfants Rouge, and were at the next table! Unfortunately, the #4 line closed for work, so getting home was a long walk!

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Sunday 11/07/21

Got up early today and was out to meet the local walking club for a Sunday walk. Initial meeting, there were three of us and we started off across the bridge. Shortly met up with the rest of the group, I’d guess at least 60 people. Turns out this is the walk of St Martin that happens once a year, from Tours to Lunyes, in total probably about 15km. This is a regular walking club that organized it, and first meet up had coffee, then half way through, the mayor of that local town was handing out apples and bottles of water, then at the end of the walk there was a band, and a big 50 passenger bus to run people back to Tours. Nicely done. It was foggy/rainy for most of the walk, which followed the banks of the Loire, but an enjoyable morning all told. Back to Tours, took some downtime, but did a walk through the botanical garden. Weird seeing Kangaroos and an emu…. Anyway, met up for dinner with Vero, an inspirational tour guide, who went from regular tour guiding for Rick Steves to doing her own angle and now has her own thing doing virtual tours etc. check her out on YouTube or Facebook, under France with Vero, and La Bande de Vero. She has now established herself in Tours and is a big part of why I decided to spend a few days here on this trip. It was lovely to finally meet her. Here’s a sample of her videos. France with Vero Youtube

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