Temperatures were chilly, 37 deg, this morning as I headed out towards Pl. des Voges. Half the square is blocked off, so I continued on towards NoGlu, a GF bakery that makes an excellent if small croissant. After a croissant I headed back in the direction of the Bastille with the idea of having some Pho. I’ve been suffering from an upset digestive system for a few days and this is compounded with the fact that I took a pretty decent fall over a low bar on some scaffolding on the sidewalk, skinning a knee and a wrist and bruising a few other places. All in all not “en pleine forme.” Anyway, found Pho-Passion just a few blocks from the Bastille excellent pho and other Viet specialties in a slightly upscale environment, but very efficient. From there decided to head over the Opera area and have a cup of tea at Cafe de La Paix, an always classic spot. All the sidewalk tables have been removed at present, as a result of the ban on outdoor heaters. From there I caught wind of a Fumoire down near Montparnasse and that turned out to be a treasure. Lovely welcoming place with the boss hanging out and met an author who turned out to be the former head and police commissioner of the Paris equivalent of the SWAT teams called RAID. After an enjoyable hang out I stopped for a quick dinner at Bouillon Chartier, where a Steak Frites, Salad and pot of wine cost less than 20 euros!

Off to the traditional Sunday Bastille market today, one of the bigger open markets in Paris and conveniently only one metro stop away or a 15 minute walk. One of the best crepes I’ve had comes from the Breton booth there, and even though my stomach has been out of sorts for a few days I decided that I should have one. Sausage, cheese and a little mustard….yum! Continued on to John R. Favorite wine purveyor and sure enough he was there as well. After that, headed rapidly home for a quick pit stop and then over to the Tuileries for a stroll followed by the Luxembourg gardens and a cup of tea at Deux Magots.

After a slow morning start headed out only to find it grey and rainy, back upstairs for an umbrella. Headed out to Belair to find the last section of the coulee Verte which I have not walked. This is an old elevated railroad line that went from Bastille to Vincennes and has been converted to a walking trail. I was never able to find the end at Vincennes so decided to try it outbound instead. Now I know why, it ends well short of Vincennes, and I poked through some pleasant areas and eventually hopped a bus to the chateau. Walk around a bit and then went back via metro to the Marche d’Aligre, one of my favorite local markets, and the Baron Rouge for some oysters and a glass. Ran into some other Americans and shared a charcuterie plate which made for an excellent lunch. Dinner was at Pierre Sang with Sharon and Darren, and was excellent, they have a new space all the way in back of a sketchy looking building and up 2 flights of stairs, but wow when you are in there, it is amazing. Excellent 1986 St. Julien wine and a multi course tasting meal. Sang is of Korean origin so everything has some interesting flavors to it.

Today was an overcast chilly day and ended up being largely devoted to housekeeping. Started with stop in at Le Peloton for coffee and a hello to the lads. Then off to BHV for some white duct tape, returned to tape up the vent in the bedroom which was admitting cold air and noise at a prodigious rate. After that it was off to look at a potential couch for replacement of the existing one. While all 13 of us owners don’t always agree we unanimously hate the existing orange couch, which gives the sensation of the cushions slipping off the front, even though they are not. After a pleasant lunch of roast chicken, frites and a salad at Sacre Frenchy, returned to the apartment to await one of Adrian’s maintenance people to help with the heaters. He eventually showed up but was not able to help in anyway, although he did print out an owners manual of sorts in French. We attempted step one, setting the clock and didn’t succeed. At this point, they are all in some kind of manual mode and staying on temp setting so that is fine. He did seem absolutely baffled as to why anyone would want their heater to stay at the temperature they set, and I was absolutely baffled as to why he would think that we would want the heaters to follow some random program that none of us understood or set. We eventually had to agree to disagree on that one. In any case, I was able to have a good nights sleep with the cold air blocked off and the noise reduced and the bedroom heater keeping things around 64f it was good. I did add some foam insulation to the exterior cut out on the window this morning for even more noise abatement. Dinner was at Breizh Odeon with a pastrami crepe.

Today started off with a train to Paris, a slightly over 6 hour trip, but no change of trains necessary, and I have bought the ticket sufficiently in advance to be in First Class for 28Euros! Nice smooth, if long ride all the way to Gare De Lyon, where after walking a few miles of tunnels you can connect to the 1 line and 2 stops later be at the apartment. Went in the door and place was just below a Sauna, so turned off the heat in the front hall and bedroom, fortunately left the living room one on as that one adjusts to lower temperatures. After grocery shopping and heading over to Rue Montorgueil for a little dinner, I spent a good hour trying to get either heater to come back on. Europeans love cryptic and meaningless symbols on their appliances and no amount of button pushing produced any kind of result other then works like “No” and “stop” and other strange characters. Usually the secret to operating European appliances is to google the model number and you can find an owners manual in English. Up till now this has always worked for me, but maybe these heaters pre date the internet? Eventually, gave up put an extra duvet on the bed so that I was buried under about 6-8 inches of blankets and called it a day. By some strange turn of fate the heater came on for awhile in the middle of the night. I strongly suspect these were programmed at one point and now the time is not correct and the whole thing is screwed up, but believe me it’s not something any normal mortal is going to figure out, and I’m really good at this stuff. I miss my baseboard heaters that just had a dial for the temperature and stayed where you put them. Sent an email to Adrian asking for help, I think all of us who share the apartment would just like a manual mode so that we can set the heat where we want and have it STAY there. For your amusement, here are some pictures.

Had a low key day today with lots of walking around Nice. Went to discover a new coffee shop, Indien, which does good coffee and roasts, but nothing to write home about. Hopped the tram back to Pl Liberty hoping that the market would be a little more interesting today, but about the same, functional but not fab. A nice walk back down the main drag and then a seafood lunch at Cafe Turin. After that a lovely dinner with Jin and Neil, Seattle Expats with a great flair for cooking and extensive knowledge about Nice. A fine evening!

Today France had a large nationwide strike protesting the planned raising of the retirement age to 64. Luckily, I didn’t have any travel planned today, but even within Nice, none of the trams were running and as far as I could tell neither were the buses. When I went out this morning, I ended up on the ocean and the strikers were amassing to start their march. It seemed more like a party or a mobile rock concert. Anyway, I wanted to check out the daily fish market, which was going to be a bit of walk, so figured out how to use the local VeloBleu bike share system. It only 1.50 euros/day and as long as you return the bike before 30 minutes that is it. The first one was a little tricky as they have you call a number on the screen by phone and based on caller ID it releases a bike for you. Once figured out, it is fairly straight forward. So rode a bike up the market at Pl. Liberation. Not that much going on, but sunny and pleasant, and as I sat down for some lunch, the marchers came through. Fairly large crowd. After a few more bike rentals, wended my way back to the center via a bakery that had some GF things, and did some more walking around. Met with a Nice realtor of British background and had an interesting conversation about the market here. Dinner at Le Bar des Oiseaux was very good.

Started off today with a walk and coffee with Richelle who has just bought a place in Nice. Got a quick tour of the apartment, which was quite large with a modern interior, but not yet furnished as she just moved in. After that, took the bus about 40 minutes to Cap Ferrat and had a lovely lunch on the edge of the harbor. It was Zarzuela, sort of like cioppino but in a flat pan. After that delicious lunch, back on the bus to Ville Franche where I picked up a hiking trail called the Senior Littoral that follows the edge of the ocean back towards Nice. This ended up being a beautiful path but had plenty of ups and downs! Eventually came back out on the road and hopped the next bus back in to the city..

Started today with a good clean up for my Aix AirBnb, that turned out to be a really nice place. A large studio, but a comfortable corner unit. It was still quite cold this morning when I stepped out for a coffee, and after walked over to the Gare Routiere, the bus station to take the 40 bus to the TGV station. That worked as advertised and after a bit of a wait onto the Ouigo TGV to Nice, about 2.5hrs. Ouigo is SNCFs discount train option, but I really don’t notice much difference. Today the train was not crowded, so just took a 4 person club seat and had things to myself in that regard. Easy trip with only a couple brief stops, then onto the Tram in Nice, a week long pass that covers all the trams and buses in most of the riviera is 15 euros! Met at Airbnb, and apartment looks fine, and very well located immediately across from a restaurant I’ve been to before and liked. After having a quick bite of the local specialty, Socca, a chickpea flour pancake, off to Monoprix for a few breakfast items and then out for a walk. Seemed pleasantly warm this afternoon with temps in the 50s, but cooling off rapidly now. Off to dinner shortly with Richelle from one of my French groups who has just moved to Nice and Jin and Neil former Seattleites who live here.

When I woke up this morning and opened the curtains, the Main Street below my apartment had been set up with tents to be the Saturday market. As I went out for coffee and a to walk around, it turns out that almost the whole inner, old town, part of the city becomes a market on Saturday. There is a produce section in one square, premade food in another square and then the main drag had mainly clothing and related articles for sale. It was once again a cold morning but warmed up to a sunny comfortable mid 40s shortly after noon. I headed over to the main museum in town, the Musee Granet, which was supposed to have a Cezanne collection and also was featuring a just opened Hockney exhibit. Actually turned out not to have much in the way of Cezanne, but the Hockney exhibit on loan from the Tate was quite extensive. Then, in a uniquely French moment, the admission came with a second ticket to an additional exhibit quite a few blocks away. After walking over there, it turned out that his exhibit was closed today…. Oh well. Had lunch on a very mediocre undercooked buckwheat crepe, nothing like the most excellent ones found at the Bastille market that are cooked on both sides with lots of butter.