I’m fortunate to be a guest once again on Join us in France, have a listen:
Author: Tangonomad
Back in Seattle, Some tips for France Travel.
Sunday October 7th, 2018
I flew back to Seattle fairly easily on Tuesday. For those leaving Paris and heading back to the USA, let me suggest a few tips for dealing with the notorious Aeroport Charles DeGaulle, CDG. For those flying on Delta flights, Air France runs the ground operations of these flights which are considered Code Share. You’ll want to have both your Delta confirmation number and your Air France one, if you can’t find the AF one, call Delta and they will provide it. 72 hours before the flight Air France takes control of the flight. This means that it is almost impossible to get anything done during this time frame, so, if you want to upgrade a seat or change things, try to do it before the 72 hour window. I once wasted the better part of a day trying to change seats. You can’t call Air France on the phone, because it is the equivalent of a toll number, so your cell phone won’t work to call it and besides, they charge you a euro a minute to be on hold. Going to the office of AF at Opera won’t work either, I tried this and the staff was unable to do a simple seat change, unable to print a boarding pass, completely useless. So, check in on your phone and when you get to CDG, go straight to the automated kiosk. Put your passport in and print out a boarding pass and you’ll be good to go. If you can avoid checking a bag you’ll save yourself massive amounts of trouble, if you can’t, try to print the luggage tags at the kiosk otherwise you will be in the longest line you’ve every seen and will have a good chance of missing your flight, even if you are 3 hours early. CDG generally only has a few people stamping passports for exiting the Schengen zone, worse on Sundays, so based on the last 3 trips, I would allow as much as 45 minutes for this step. After that it will be a train to the correct terminal, you’ll need to know which one, and pay attention to the letter, 2E and 2F are completely different places. Once you are through security and in the terminal, try to get yourself into the Air France lounge. Various credit cards can do this, and I found my Alaska MVP Gold status does it for me. (They almost always say no at first, then it takes them 10-15 minutes to figure it out) The AF lounge has an excellent spread of food and lots of space.
A note on getting to CDG: If you travel light and can negotiate some stairs with your bags, the RER is a reliable and cheap way to get to the airport. If you have a Navigo Decouverte Transit pass (5Euros for the card, bring passport photo, available at any metro station, 23euros per week unlimited transit in Paris Monday-Sunday) the airport is included. If you don’t, a ticket from anywhere in central Paris is about 11euros. If you’d like to take a taxi, it’s a flat rate 55euros plus 7 euros if you call in advance to schedule. You can also use Uber. For solo travelers, the RER is by far the best deal and takes about 45 minutes to get to CDG on the B line. It generally runs every 10 minutes, so no need to worry about a specific train. Navigo Decouverte Pass
For an amusing essay on CDG
“CDG is France’s own Bermuda Triangle, where people and their luggage go quietly missing in huge quantities on a daily basis, only to emerge later, unable to explain what happened or where they have been.”- Alan Fox on CDG
Some general travel tips for those going to France:
Here are some things that I wouldn’t travel without,
Charcoal Capsules: Great for when your stomach is upset or you may have food poisoning, these are really magic, don’t take your meds at the same time. Charcoal Capsules
Silk Travel sack (I have a Sea to Summit) Good when you are just given a bottom sheet and a duvet. Silk liner
Black electrical tape: Wrap around a pill bottle, good for blocking those annoying LED pilot lights that are on almost everything and make it difficult to sleep. Also bring some foam earplugs.
Flashlight: Put this by your bed every night and use it whenever you get up during the night. You don’t always remember where obstacles are in a strange room. I use a Fenix LD10, no longer available but this is a close substitute. Pick something that takes a normal AA or AAA battery. Fenix LD12
Emergency Ponchos: These can be bought for $2 and fit in a pocket, handy for those days when it may or may not rain. Emergency Poncho
A packable day pack is extremely useful, my current favorite is: Eddie Bauer packable daypack
Much smaller, but another don’t leave home without it is the Sea to Summit 20L which folds small enough to fit in your pocket: Sea to Summit Ultrasil daypack
Pulsar Oral B electric Toothbrush: Leave that 2 pound Sonicare, that you spent way too much money for, and that needs to be charged everyday at home and use one of these $7 disposable brushes. Doesn’t need charging and only weighs a few ounces. Pulsar Oral B Soft
Body Glide: This is an antichafing product good for avoiding blisters, can also be used on any other areas that are chafing. Body Glide
Sunscreen: I like bullfrog clear SPF 50, but bring your favorite, also bring a Lip Sunscreen stick and a spare. Bullfrog SPF50
Backup Phone battery: This one is not very heavy and can easily charge an iphone Anker Battery 6700mah
Plug adaptors: Generally you won’t need a voltage converter, but you will need adaptors, put little address stickers on them and try not to leave them in recessed outlets, I use the Voltage Valet brand: Voltage Valet B adaptor
If you really want American style coffee, you might take one of these, test it out at home first: Sea to Summit folding coffee maker
And for you coffee fanatics, check out my page: Coffee in Paris
For Paris, I highly recommend a map, much easier than the phone, although a combination of the two is helpful, try this plastic coated one: Streetwise Paris Map
Pickpocket resistant clothes, these guys took forever to ship, but the quality is good: Clothing Arts
Bring a Ziplock bag with your favorite Antibiotic ointment, Hydrocortisone cream, allergy meds, Loperamide and other first aid items, it saves a lot of time if you have the essentials with you.
For questions around how to handle money and credit cards, I put up this page for people on the Camino, most of it applies: Handling Money and Credit Cards
For a SIM card, you can buy this in advance, or find it in the RELAY stores at CDG. Make sure your phone is unlocked and do not install until departure as 14 days starts counting when it hooks to a network. It does allow tethering, is rechargeable (20 euros) and if you register, will stay active for 6 months after a charge. Orange Holiday SIM
Here’s my “how to use a cellphone abroad” page, for Camino but same ideas: Travel with Cell Phone
I have a list of general travel tips that’s worth a look and will give you some ideas: Travel Tips
Travel Insurance, don’t leave home without it. And NO, the one offered with your ticket is not adequate: Travel Insurance Hint: Buy an annual plan if you travel often!
Paris walks….
Monday, October 1st, 2018
There was a definite chill in the air and it felt like fall this morning. I headed to Loustic, reputed to be a good coffee place in the 4th. They did in fact have excellent technique and did everything right, but it still didn’t taste all that great. After a nice stroll through the 3rd and then down to St. Paul, I stopped at Comptoir des Mers for an oyster apero, 6 oysters and a small glass of white for 12 euros. Then I decided to try one of the famous places on my list, Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. The place has a spectacular interior and the lamb I had for lunch was excellent although a touch over cooked. Met some lovely people from Hood river area in Oregon who had just spent a month in Burgundy.
Lunch at Le Train Bleu in Gare de Lyon.
Finally found one of the famous new Uritroittoirs. The ones on Isle St. Louis were removed.
Model being photographed as I walk out of my apartment.
Had dinner last night with CC and friends. This was owned by the hostess who’s grandfather had used it in the trenches in WWI. Apparently it was decoy, put up above the trench to see if any shots would be fired at it, before moving to another trench. Next to it is a brass shell casing that has been carved very intricately.
Error
This video doesn’t exist
St. Germain en Laye
Sunday, September 30th, 2018
Last fall, I spent a few days in Burgundy in a rented apartment in Beaune. The landlord, Andre had moved to Beaune and bought a building to use as vacation rentals in he retirement. He sung the praises of St. Germain en Laye, a town just east of Paris and easily reached by RER train, free with the Navigo pass. I chose to go on Sunday because that is their market day. It’s about a 40 minute train ride east of the city, but the market did not disappoint. There’s a pretty nice castle, a big church and then a huge market covering the whole square. The castle turns out to have some amazing gardens and whole town sits up on a plateau with great views towards Paris. Spent some time poking around the side streets and walking in the gardens before eating a quick lunch and taking the train back to town.
That little nub on the right is the top of the Eiffel Tower.
Paris. Marche St. Honore, Hermès, Joel Robuchon.
Saturday, September 29th, 2018
Had a nice relaxed morning catching up on blog posts etc. Installed myself at Deux Magots, next to a couple of old French geysers who were reading the newspaper and muttering to each other about the various indignities in the world. After catching up on the blog and restaurant entries, headed out to meet one of my Camino friends, ER, at the Marche St. Honore. Had a nice walk through the Tuileries on the way there. After a simple lunch, she suggested we go try some wine at the Cave of Joel Robuchon. On the way, she wanted to stop in at Hermès and look at a belt. The prices in Hermès were shocking to say the least, with some items well above a down payment on a house, probably as much as a house in a lot of the USA. Anyway of to the Joel Robuchon wine cave, a little store near Vavin that does a free tasting every Saturday. Couple of whites a couple of reds, the last being a fairly pricey Hermitage, nothing I was crazy about. After a regroup, met up with LC, a fashion blogger for dinner. She’s here working away as it is fashion week. She’s reached the point where they are giving her items with hope that she’ll feature them on her blog. One of the entertaining parts of the evening was explaining some of the history has I walked her to a metro stop. We crossed the Pont Neuf, the model for modern road. First bridge to have elevated sidewalks and parapet view points so pedestrians could enjoy crossing the bridge and not mix up with carriages. The biggest crime on the Pont Neuf was cloak theft, and French term for thief reflects this to this day “Filou.” Next innovation was mass transit, someone got the idea of selling individual places in a carriage, got the King’s permission and launched a set route, still a bus route to this day! Another innovation, the park bench, those wandering the Tuileries to show off their outfits needed a place to sit and watch each other.
Inside St. Germain des Pres church after restoration.
Didn’t quite have enough in my wallet to get this…
Paris, Atelier des Lumieres, Montparnasse tower, Jardin du Luxembourg
Friday, September 28, 2018
Today’s project was to go to the interactive Atelier des Lumieres exposition. This took some doing as the website didn’t like my credit card and various phone calls had to be made to get it working. Eventually success. In this exhibit they project moving art on all surfaces except the ceiling and play various classical music pieces, hard to describe, but really cool. See link below for some video. After that, went to a favorite neighborhood restaurant, L’Estaminet in Oberkampf for some lunch and then headed to Opera Garner to see the building. Unfortunately it has been off limits for a few days and the crowd was really big, so that will have to be saved for another time. Headed over to Montparnasse tower to go to the top. This is the one somewhat hideous hi rise built in the ’70s in the middle of Paris. View from the terrace on the 56th floor is pretty good, but hazy, see photos. After a stop at Le Select for a glass, it was a walk through the Luxembourg gardens and then past Pl. St. Sulpice. Lots of interesting memories from my daily commute as a 10 year old. Basically, walk from Pl. St. Sulpice to the Luxembourg RER station, through the park and take the train about 25 minutes to Parc de Sceaux, where Ecole Nouvelle D’Antony had agreed to take us. Then the reverse in the evenings. Pretty solid day considering French schools go until 4:30pm every day. For dinner I met up with JR and AY and we headed to a favorite restaurant of their, Les Enfants Rouge, French with Japanese chef, waiters etc. and the best meal I have had on this trip so far. Just wow! Pictures in the Restaurants section.
Error
This video doesn’t exist
This was the Atelier des Lumieres Klimt exhibit, classical music in the background pretty remarkable, to see it in action: https://www.atelier-lumieres.com
That is the Jardin du Luxembourg as seen from the top of Montparnasse tower.
This is the St. Sulpice church, with the building that I lived in next door.
6 Place St. Sulpice, where I lived as a 10-12 year old.
The carousel at Luxembourg gardens, it has shrunk since I used to ride it. You are given a baton to try and snag rings as you spin around.
Paris, Butte Aux Cailles
Thursday September 27, 2018
Had a lovely dinner with CC last night at Bistro D’Henri. A small neighborhood bistro on Rue Princesse that’s managed to stay fairly off the radar. A lovely Chateaubriand with some green pepper corn sauce and some gazpacho as an appetizer. Then some walking around with a nightcap at Deux Magots. Fun staying in the 6th right near everything. This morning, I went to Malongo for some excellent coffee and then headed to the Pantheon, since I’d never been inside it. After waiting around for the 10:00am opening, walked around inside. Unfortunately one of the most interesting features was out of commission, Focault’s Pendulum. Focaults’ Pendulum Wiki. The pendulum was designed show the earth’s rotation. From there I wanted to explore some of the non touristy neighborhoods, so I headed to Butte aux Cailles, famous for having a village feel. Lovely little cobbled streets, not too crowded some excellent cafes. Had a good lunch at Tandem, (called that because it’s a partnership between the owner and his brother). Lady and husband next to me communicated, her in English him in French. She was from Kansas and they own the tea room next door. After lunch I walked through Pl. D’Italie and the Chinatown area of Paris and then headed to see the Atelier des Lumieres exhibit. Too much of line for me, and trying to buy online tickets involved having to create an account etc. so I skipped that and headed back to the apartment for some down time.
Paris, Picasso Museum, Basilica at St. Denis
Wednesday September 26th, 2018
Ended up having a most excellent tapas type dinner at L’Avant Comptoir du Mer last night. All locals around me who were friendly. Small dishes, Oysters, squid, clams etc. great fun and a cool place, go early because it gets crowded.
Nice to wake up and find it cool outside. 47 degrees overnight. Found an excellent coffee shop just down the street, Malongo, that actually knew the difference between an Allonge (horrible) and an Americano. From there it was off to Notre Dame for the obligatory selfie, then walked towards the Marais. I walked through the holocaust memorial, 200,000 French Jews were killed during the holocaust. I’ve been doing some reading about that time period, and it sounds as though many people have still not come to grips with the various types of collaboration and resistance offered by their neighbors. From there, a short walk to the Picasso museum. The nice thing about this time of year is that there are no lines…. In I went, a nice follow up to what I saw in Arles and Nice. After a brisk tour of the Picasso museum it was deeper into the Marais with a stop for a haircut. This one of those things that is entirely too aggravating in France to be believed. I tried a few days ago in Marseille, was told a 10 minute wait. The lady cutting hair couldn’t seem to cut and talk at the same time and talking was clearly her priority. After about 20 minutes and seeming no closer, I stormed out suggesting less talking and more cutting. Today they told me 10 minutes again, and dicked around for awhile but eventually got the job done. It only takes about 5 minutes to actually cut my hair, so screwing around half an hour to get it done is super annoying. After solving that, the Marche Des Enfants Rouge had a good Moroccan Tagine for lunch. Substitute Veggies for the Couscous and it becomes GF. From there it was off the outer neighborhood of St. Denis to see the Basilica there. This is where every French king and member of royalty was buried for years. St. Denis has a bad reputation as a neighborhood, but the area around the basilica seemed ok. After that, I hoped off the metro near the Champs Eylsee and walked the famous Ave. Montaigne. It is fashion week in Paris, so did spot a few overly stylish people, but otherwise the street is fairly understated. The shops all have names of things that no one can afford, Chanel, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Versace, and a few dozen others. 
That’s the menu at L’Avant Comptoir hanging from the ceiling.
The Picasso museum building.
Marseille to Paris
Tuesday, September 25th, 2018
Took the train from Marseille to Paris today, very civilized over all. 772km, just under 500 miles in about 3.5 hours. We were on time to the minute. I arrived at Gare de Lyon, recharged my Navigo Decouverte pass for the week (23euros, all the metro and bus you can use), and headed to the Odeon metro stop. A quick walk and found the apartment. Small studio perfectly fine, but showing a lack of owner attention in the details. Nothing of great importance, but the main blind doesn’t work, luckily there is an exterior shade, TV cable box doesn’t turn on, suspect dead batteries in the remote, no laundry detergent and other similar minor issues. Fabulous location just off St. Germain and 2 blocks from Odeon metro. I immediately headed over to Cafe Breizh for a GF crepe. Feeling fortified, did the usual shopping, which by now has been almost the same in every city, paper towels, Kleenex, laundry detergent etc. This time I just brought my Jam and butter with me from Marseille. I’m not sure that I’m entitled to feel this way, but coming to Paris feels like coming home for me. I guess my 2 years as a kid here imprinted more than I thought. It’s also nice to be somewhere where the store clerks and waiters inherently understand that time is valuable. The rest of France, nobody is in any hurry to do anything regardless of the number of people in line or any kind of perceived urgency. The other thing is that it is actually cool here, about 60 degrees, so not really cold but very pleasant. I’m looking forward to checking out some less touristy places this week, and will likely not do much on the museum front. As a frequent visitor, I can now skip most of the obligatory tourist stops.
Marseille, explorations and walking tour.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Yesterday I made a few calls to try and arrange a food tour, none of which panned out. But, one person texted me back and suggested a free walking tour with a friend of hers. Cool concept, meet at 10am, every Mon, Wed. Fri. Under the mirrored canopy near the metro stop, about 2 block from my apt. And pay what you want at the end of the tour. Good crowd showed up, the guide, Ezekiel, was an anthropologist who spoke good English and knew what he was doing. He moved it along well and covered a lot of ground. Today was a marked difference weather wise, as the Mistral was blowing. Very, very windy, and much cooler. I wore a jacket for the first time since Chamonix. The tour showed how a lot of downtown Marseille had been destroyed in WWII and the Germans had destroyed a whole neighborhood because the Corsican Mafia had defied them. They did preserve select buildings, oddly enough. Turns out that Marseille was designated the European Capitol city for a year in 2013, this mean that the EU poured money in to showcase it. Apparently a turning point. All the things you’ve heard about Marseille being rough, dirty and dangerous, at least in the Vieux port area, just aren’t true anymore. Sure, it’s France’s second largest city with a population of 850,000 in the city and 1.6million in the metropolitan area. It’s largely not on the tourist map, so don’t tell anyone that it’s a really cool place to visit, and do watch Anthony Bourdain’s episode on it. Paris is much more dangerous, dirty and smelly. But I digress, after the walking tour, I tackled a Bouillabaisse. Lots of little bony stuff, but tasty. I’m reminded of my father who used to order these Fruits de Mer platters full of shells and crabs, spend an hour picking out little bits of meat, and then pronounce himself still hungry at the end of the exercise. I felt a little the same after the bouillabaisse. Sotto Mare has nothing to worry about. After lunch, I tried to find the African Market area. Found a few things, but it really wasn’t up to the hype about it being like going to Africa. Just a few Africans stores, some produce etc. nothing to write home about. Took one of the Trams for a ride, had a coffee and rode back. Now back at the Caravelle bar trying a different Pastis.
This is the mirror Canopy at the Vieux Port Metro stop.
These are from the Panier neighborhood, the oldest part of Marseille.
