Monday 09/30/19

Started the day by heading over to Pl. St. Sulpice, where it turned out that the funeral service for President Chirac were going on. After getting through 4 layers of barricades and security, it turned out the service wasn’t going to start for at least another hour. No sense waiting around for that. Later I was to find out that Bill Clinton and Putin were in attendance. Many streams of black cars with motorcycle escorts, lights and sirens around all day. Headed over to Bon Marche where I was able to get a haircut and peruse the grand epicerie, every foodies idea of heaven. Then off to a restaurant near the Champs de Mars for lunch. This one called Les Fables de Fontaine. Excellent prix fixe lunch, with a celery soup, salmon and a dessert. Then walked around the Eiffel Tower and over to Trocadero before heading down Ave Montaigne. That’s the street that sells nothing you need at fabulous prices, Chanel, Gucci, Feragamo etc… Some interesting outfits wandering around and of course the “influencers” with their camera crews for that spontaneous shot. Then headed to the Opera Garnier, which is closed on Monday and “Exceptionally” closed on Tuesday as well, oh well. Then after regrouping at home, it was off to meet M.C. At Bistrot de Perigord, for some foie gras and some duck, it’s a low key place but it didn’t disappoint.

Sunday 09/29/19

Went to find a well rated Aussie coffee shop near Montmartre called KB Cafe. Turned out to be good and they had one GF item. Then checked out the Musee de la Vie Romantique, a town house that was converted into a small museum. It has a lovely courtyard and a small cafe. Would be very nice on a non rainy day. After climbing up to the Pl. de Terte, walking by Sacre Couer, it was down the Abesses area for some Poulet Roti for lunch. Then walked down Rue des Martyrs for the length of it and caught a bus back to the 6th. Dinner was low key at nearby St. Michel area but had a view of Norte Dame, although a very heavy rain shower hit in the midst of things, luckily I was already ensconced in the restaurant before it hit. By the time dinner was done, the skies had cleared. Ah, Grey Paris!

KB Cafe, top of Rue des Martyrs.Musee de la Vie Romantique.

Place du Tertre, Montmartre.

Got a picture of this same guy from about 10 years ago, with same painting too.Looking towards the city from the steps of Sacre Couer.Sacre Couer.

Saturday 09/28/19

One of the things about having been to Paris quite frequently is that I can give myself a pass on waiting in line to go to museums. Now, I’m trying to explore areas where tourists are much less common. So with that in mind, I headed out to do a ramble around 20th Arrondissement. This area, known as Belleville, is famous for Pere LaChaise cemetery and where Edith Piaf started. I did some googling, and decided to head to the Village of Charonne, but first made a stop at Peleton coffee, one of the coffee shops favored by podcaster Oliver Gee. They did make a good coffee, then it was on the bus to the back part of the 20th. Charonne village was a few cobbled streets but not much, so on to the main thoroughfares of Menilmontant and Bagnolet. Lots of the usual business, many people bustling around. Some very atmospheric bars and restaurants. I chose a recommendation form Hip Paris called Le Comptoir hidden up a side street. Had a nice piece of skate wing, although overall things were unexceptional, cute place though. Did make a stop at Belleville Brulerie outpost, another of Paris’ high end coffee places. They also were doing a good job of making fine coffee. After a quick walk down Rue de Montorgueil, it was home for a regroup and then off to Le Baron Rouge to meet up with Join Us in France members. That ended up being a lot of fun. Then off to the 9th for dinner at Le Mieux with friends John and Atsu and guest. Skate wing at Le Comptoir.Join Us in France Group meet up at Le Baron Rouge.Dinner at Le Mieux.

Part of Le Petite Ceinture, the train track around Paris that is being turned into a park.

Friday 09/27/19

I got up early, finished packing and cleaning up my AirBnB in Colmar. Was able to go out for a little walk and coffee before Andre, the host, came and drove me to the station. What a nice couple and great hosts. Train ride from Colmar goes through Strasbourg and then straight to Paris, Gare de l’Est. Once there, I transferred to metro line 4 to get to Odeon. As I tried to board the first train, which was crowded, various people attempted to “help” me with my luggage, something that is common pickpocket behavior, immediately bailed off that train and waited for then next one. On the next one, I got on and a large male was blocking my entrance to some degree and when I tried to get around him, he was dodging the same way I was. I always try to get to the back of a car and against a wall as this makes it much harder to steal thing from you. While this was going on it was apparent that his left hand was trying to get at my right front pocket. Fortunately, I was wearing my Clothing Arts Pickpocket proof pants, which have zippers on all of the pockets. He didn’t get anything and at this point others saw what he was doing and he bailed off the car. Welcome to Paris! Got the apartment, just down the hall a few doors from my last rental in April. 6th floor, elevator and in a great location, Couer St. Andre des Arts. This apartment is a duplex with a really neat, no railing spiral staircase going upstairs to a low ceiling bedroom with a big sky light. I was able to prop the skylight open just the right amount with a spoon for good ventilation. I’m finding all kinds of head and shoulder places to bump, but adapting fast. It’s nicely finished, quiet at night, washing machine and otherwise very nice, no view though, inner courtyard. After the obligatory supply shopping, went out for a walk and since it was off and on raining, took the Batobus, a hop on hop off boat on the Seine. I had intended to go to Trocadero and get a good Eiffel Tower picture, but when I got there it was pouring, so just stayed on the boat. For the evening, I headed over to the 5th, not an area I’ve spent any time in at night. A little research produced 3 possible wine bars that looked worth a try. BonVivant was great, friendly and busy. 5e Cru was more personal, a wine shop that serves some food and wine. Le Doux Raisin was more of a funk restaurant, so I had a few snails and a salad. Then it was off to Deux Magots for a digestif before calling it a night.5e Cru wine bar , duck rilletesDigestif at Les Deux Magots.Church of St. GermaineBatobus.

Thursday 09/26/19

I slept quite well last night in spite of the occasional church bells. The AirBnB I’m in is in a very old building, but a completely new remodel, the best of both worlds, and very well located. I got up and headed for the covered market for coffee, and then to the visitor info center where I could take one of those hokey tourist tram things around town. That was good for about an hour. My landlord had given me a fairly extensive walking tour the night before so there really weren’t any surprises. After finishing that, I decided I would go to one of the famous Alsace wine towns, the nearest one being Eguisheim. After exploring complicated bus, hop on hop off bus options, I went to the station and rented an electric bike (17euro) for the afternoon. The map they gave me showed a nice bike route, but didn’t have any street names or landmarks, mostly just a squiggle on the map, almost useless. (Why can’t people understand that you need street name and landmarks to navigate?). Anyway, with google maps on the phone I got there with minimal fuss, parked the bike, walked around and found a place for lunch. First try, fancy place, still hadn’t offered me a menu after 5 minutes, walked out, no one noticed. Second place, Crepes, always a safe harbor and good. After lunch tasted a few of the local whites, tasty, but not really my kind of stuff. Rode the bike back to Colmar following a different route and turned it in. After a quick regroup I went to the Bartholdi museum. This is the man who designed and built the Statue of Liberty. Museum was not all that interesting, but models abound of some of his famous works. Apparently Gustav Eiffel helped with the framework of the Statue of Liberty.

Statue of Bartholdi, Statue of Liberty designer.Colmar.View from my sidewalk dinner table. Colmar.Sometimes, comfort food is what you want. Steak Frites, green peppercorn sauce and Cote du Rhône

Inside the covered market. No oysters to be had though.

Wednesday 09/25/19

Today promised to be a big day, so was up at 7:00am to finish packing and cleaning before heading to the train station in Wengen. The day proceeded with multiple trains:

Wengen to Lauterbrunnen was the start. Then Lauterbrunnen to Interlake Ost. Then amazingly, the Interlaken Ost to Speiz train left 5minutes late! Then a change to a Speiz to Bern train where I put my luggage in storage, walked around and found some lunch. After lunch, it was Bern to Basel and then 20 minutes before Basel to Colmar on a French train (what a difference!). From the Colmar station I walked about 15minutes to the AirBnb, a lovely building where Beethovens love interest lived. I screwed up timing, but the owners have the sporting good shop downstairs, so all worked out well, and the owner came and gave me a pretty good walking tour of the town. Colmar looks like it came out of a fairy tale. It’s a mixed feeling being back in France, I love how everything in Switzerland works so well, but the food is difficult for me. Last night I skipped dinner because there just wasn’t anything around that I really wanted to eat. Tonight, a tranche of foie gras, followed by honey roasted duckling accompanied by a small pitcher of Vacqueras…. that’s more like it. Anyway here are pictures from the day.

The AirBnb in Wengen, just perfect for me, didn’t want to leave.BernBern.

Pumpkin risotto for lunch in Bern.

This is Colmar. The cheap way to make houses was to put up a timber frame, then wattle in between and fill in with mud and plaster. This town was spared bombing in WWII.

Dinner at Le 3, Colmar. Foie gras followed by duckling “Cannette.”

Tuesday 09/24/19

Weather forecast was for rain starting shortly after noon, so I stayed fairly near. Also the annual descent of the cows from the high pastures was scheduled for 11:15am this morning. I managed a good hike to a viewpoint and back into town before the descent of the cows. In Switzerland, even the cows are on time! Sure enough pretty much a few minutes after the scheduled start a procession came through. See the video below. All the noise comes from the bells around the cow’s necks.

Looking at WengenErosion control, Swiss style.Looking back towards Wengen.Staubbach falls.

Lauterbrunnen with Staubbach falls.

View on the way to dinner at Baren HotelAmuse Bouche at Baren Hotel dinnerLamb.

Monday 09/23/19

I got a late start this morning and slept in until after 8:00pm. It was raining fairly vigorously, so didn’t seem like there was any rush to get out. Luckily the rain was variable, so I decided to try a hike. Took the train down to Lauterbrunnen then the lift to Grustchalp. It started raining again, so had a coffee and waited for it to blow over. It abated to some degree and I was able to do the hour and 20 minute walk to Murren without getting too soaked, although rain gear and an umbrella came in handy. Great views through the clouds. Had an excellent mixed salad with chanterelles and bacon for lunch as well as bowl of pumpkin soup. Then down to Lauterbrunnen and a walk over to Staubbach falls, one of the dramatic waterfalls in the valley. The steep trail up leads you behind the waterfall.

Pumpkin soupCheck out the Ibex lounging right in town.

Staubbach falls, just outside of Lauterbrunnen.View through the front door of my AirBnB, Clouds cleared up.

Sunday 09/22/19

Today’s adventure was to travel to the other side of the valley to Murren. To do this, take the train down to Lauterbrunnen, then a cable car up and switch to a single car railway. From Murren, I took the cable car up to the Shilthorn/Piz Gloria. A spectacular view and famed for being in James Bond movie, something they milk shamelessly at every turn. Lunch buffet at the 360 degree rotating restaurant was agreeable. Then it was down to the halfway point where they have secured a walkway to the side of the mountain, of course it has holes in it etc. to give you a feeling of being out in space. Then back down to Murren and another cable car to Gimmenwald. Gimmenwald is a favorite of Rick Steves, and is quite beautiful, but not much there. After an hour or so of exploring, another cable car down to Stecklberg followed by a post bus back to Lauterbrunnen and then the cog railway back to Wengen. All this sound onerous, but the Swiss have the timing so well worked out that you are seldom waiting for more than a few minutes till the next transport arrives. I was able to book the next leg of my trip last night. By staying here in Wengen an extra day, I miss a French train strike, so now heading to Comar on Wednesday where I have an AirBnb in the center of the old town booked, and then to Paris on Friday. After all of the train and cable car trips today, returned to the Wengen cheese festival in progress. Not much excitement, as in Switzerland almost every dish on the menu has cheese involved. There was what looked like a polka band but played country western, although it was incomprehensible, probably something about pick up trucks etc. see video clip.

The Eiger (ogre) , the Monch (monk) and Jungfrau(young girl). The legend is the monk is protecting the girl from the ogre.Bathroom signLooking down at Murren.

Working dairy in Gimmenwald, note the cow bells being stored, and the milk cans.Gimmenwald views.Gimmenwald, paraglide cruising by.

Some kind of country western, but it sort of looks like a polka band. Wengen Cheese Festival.

Saturday, 09/21/19

I got up at 6:30am to make the 7:24 first train to the top. Well worth it as not too many people up here. They have a well organized tour of the facilities and your able to go outside on an ice field. Interesting trivia: The cog railway built here in the late 1800’s was based on the studying the cog at Mt. Washington in NH. It is breathtaking up here and in both senses, spectacular scenery and altitude is very noticeable, 11,401 feet! This whole area is a hiking wonderland, the plan for now is to go partway down, get off the train at an intermediate station and then hike down to another station about an hour of walking or possibly longer depending on the trail selection. Weather supposed to be variable tomorrow, so glad I got it together to do this today. After taking the train part way down and having lunch at the midpoint, I went back to my AirBnb for a regroup, and then took the train down to Lauterbrunnen to see the waterfalls. A short bus ride to Trummelbach falls, the main attraction. It’s largely within the rocks, so not that exciting. See photos below.

The train headed up to Wengen from Lauterbrunnen