Castillon to Maslacq, 16km/10miles 05/07/24

The Gite at Boulangerie Brousse in Arthez did not disappoint. Bertrand put on a great meal for 18 hungry pilgrims including a heart vegetable soup. A fish and lasagna combo over vegetables and an ice cream cake for desert. He is a true character and has the hospitality gene in a big way. My plan had been to have him drop me back in Pomp, but on rising it was raining quite hard, so I decided to split the difference and have him take my only 5km back to Castillon which would still result in a solid day. Luckily the rain abated a bit and an hour and a bit later I was back at the bakery having a second cup of coffee. Then headed out after dire warnings that tomorrow is a national holiday and NOTHING will be open. (Not much of a contrast to my daily experience of rural France, but I keep hoping). Anyway, bought part of a sausage at the butcher, who did happen to be open. Then a lovely walk on a forest road with no cars. Joined a local walking his Border Collie and we walked and chatted for a good half hour or so before he turned back. The promised bakery towards the end of the walk was of course closed. Anyway, arrived tired but reasonably dry at the La Ferme de Bicatou in Maslacq, the local deli being closed from 12:30pm-3:30pm because who would possibly want to buy food at lunchtime? The owners gave me my room a nice little room at the end of the courtyard. Did some clean up and now awaiting the 3:30pm opening of the deli to venture forth and stock up on something for tomorrow. Off and on rain all day today but thankfully mostly not too heavy. You know how Charley Brown always fall for Lucy pulling the football away at the last minute? That’s how I feel about finding a store, cafe, restaurant or anything else open on any day at anytime in Rural France. I keep expecting that something will be open, and I keep getting suckered. Someone actually explained it to me the other day, here’s why it is so bad: In France in the country most of the people own the premises, eg. They are not paying rent. So, it is cheaper for them to close than to hire an employee to remain open. Ergo, they only work when they want to and close the rest of the time. In the USA most businesses are paying rent and any time there are closed represents lost revenue that can never be recovered. 24,000 steps.

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