Espeyrac to Conques, 16km 04/11/22

Actually started the day in Golinhac, but since I had walked the distance to Espeyrac the afternoon before, I had a taxi pick me up at 8:00am and drop me back in Espeyrac, saving me 2 hours of walking. Today’s walk had yet another pernicious influence, with extreme wind gusts. At one point a branch fell in front of me, luckily not close enough for injury. In any case, not a particularly scenic day, but some good uphill to a plateau, then a long downhill into Conques. Conques is almost a fantasy of a medieval village, with cars largely kept out, stone streets and, of course, barely any of the businesses open. Found some familiar fellow pilgrims and went to the 11:45am mass, then a salad at one seemed to be the only restaurant open in town. It was a creperie, but didn’t have galletes, the buckwheat savory crepes that are GF. (Imagine how pissed I was when I walked by later in the afternoon and everyone was eating galletes! I called the owner on it and he gave me some BS about the kitchen etc…..somethings in France I will never understand.). My assigned hotel didn’t have my reservation, but they did have space and a quick text to Walk the Camino had it fixed in short order. I got a very cool corner room.

Anyway, today was day 11 of walking many miles everyday while carrying a too heavy pack. I’m grateful that I had nothing other than the usual aches, pains and stiffness one would expect. No blisters! I’m also happy to call it good for this trip, with approximately 206km/128 miles of walking in the last 11 days! (Not barefoot, but uphill in the snow for sure!). Tomorrow I will take an expensive taxi ride to the nearest train station and take 2 trains to Perigeux, the capital city of the Dordogne. This is an area famous for truffles and Foie Gras, should be interesting!

I would like to complement Walk the Camino, the company in Scotland that made all of my reservations and arrangements. They did a good job, and were always available by WhatsApp. Thank you Tracy, Caroline and Christine. If you want an adventure like this have a look at their offerings: https://walkthecamino.com/

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